After
the somewhat truncated 5F Festival and washed out Superbowl we were ready to
get the heck out of Farmer’s Cay but as happens all the time around here, the
weather had other ideas and we wound up staying a couple extra days to allow
the Exuma Sound seas to calm down as we headed south. Before I go
any further, the wifi location I'm at has a pretty restricted amount of
bandwidth I'm allowed to use which means I probably won't be able to post any
photos this blog. Sorry, there are some good ones ready for me to upload! I'll try to catch up next time.
We’d not been in a marina since leaving Nassau well over a month before so the
Captain’s of both Magic and our buddy boat Veritas decided we were ready to
treat the Admiral’s a bit and head to probably the nicest marina in the Exumas,
Emerald Bay, 10 miles north of Georgetown. This marina, part of a huge Sandal’s
resort is absolutely beautiful with huge floating docks, free wifi, free
laundry (a really big deal since we’d been paying close to $30+ ever time we
washed our clothes!), nice showers and a comfortable lounge with cable TV. They
even have a “no frills” slip rate of just $1.00/ft for boats that don’t need
electricity. Since we make our own power via solar panels, a buck a foot was
just too hard to pass up! Diane and I spent 3 days here enjoying all the
amenities they offered. Unfortunately, like much of the Bahamas, even this
marina has fallen on some hard times and their only restaurant had closed and
the ones at the Sandals resort were prohibitively expensive. We mitigated that
by renting a car for a day and driving into Georgetown to shop and eat a couple
meals where someone else did the dishes!
At the end of our 3-day marina “vacation” Diane and I bid a temporary farewell
to Veritas and made the short run to Georgetown and Stocking Island. Jennings
and Patty were enjoying their stay so much they decided to remain until another
wind event passed.
It is extremely hard for me to accurately
describe the cruisers “Mecca” of GTown, oft called “The World’s Largest Adult
Winter Camp.” Located at the very southern end of the Exuma chain, GTown is the
largest town not just on the island of Great Exuma but the entire chain. It is
also the turnaround point of a lot of cruisers’ southbound journey and many
yachts come here in the fall and literally stay put until late spring. It's
almost as if the earth was flat and the end is just south of here! GTown has
any number of wonderful anchorages, each with a different flavor and protection
from the various "wind events" which come through occasionally. While
some boats anchor right near the town itself, most (like us) wind up just to
the east along the shores of Stocking Island about a mile east where there is
protection from the usual easterly trade winds. During the occasional frontal
passage and winds shift more to the west, there is a mass exodus to the other
side of the harbor as boats snuggle up to the shore close to GTown for
wind/wave protection. Once the wind shifts again from the eastern quadrant,
they all shuffle back toward Stocking Island. As I type this, almost 300 boats
are anchored in the area and a small, temporary town has sprung up complete
with an unofficial Mayor and a group of cruisers who act as a sort of Town
Council. Every morning at 0800 the “mayor” (who I haven’t met but really does a
lot of work on the cruiser’s behalf) conducts a radio “net” dispensing
information on weather, local business specials, cruiser activities, etc. There
are more activities here than in a retirement village; volleyball, softball, yoga,
cards, basket weaving (see!),
and my personal favorite, conch horn blowing…just to name a few! There are even
a couple beach front restaurants on Stocking Island which serve pretty good
food at surprisingly (for the Bahamas) inexpensive prices. In a couple weeks,
the number of boats here will almost double for the annual Georgetown Cruisers
Regatta. There are boats that come here year after year, just for this event,
which is as organized as Macy’s Thanksgiving Parade…but a whole lot more fun!
As for us (and I include Veritas
here), the organization is already a bit much and I just don’t see us hanging
around for the regatta. Still, there is something to do every day and most
evenings there is either a cruiser’s pot-luck or some special dinner ashore complete
with what I’ve decided is the national dish of the Bahamas…mac-n-cheese. They
eat it by the pound here! That, and packaged “Honey Buns” seem to be the most
popular food most places we’ve visited. Just about every tiny store around that
sells any grocery items have boxes of Honey Buns...amazing the Bahamian people
aren't normally fat!
I’ll try to post a lot more about Georgetown
and our numerous adventures here later, but I finally have found a wifi hotspot
and want to post what I have. We plan to leave here in a couple days and begin
a tentative run back north (guess I'm one of those "flat earth"
people!). Our working plan is to revisit some of our favorite Exuma islands and
then head to Eleuthera Island.
Till next time…we’re still searching for the elusive wifi network and having
fun!
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